Later in the afternoon, things still looked stormy but the worst of the weather stopped. I took the rest of the afternoon to work on medical school applications and have a little rest and relaxation. Every thru-hiker needs some of that from time to time. So we definitely made the most of our stormy, dreary day. For your amusement, the following is a picture depicting the incredibly strenuous afternoon I had.
Monday, May 31, 2010
Making the Most of "Down Time"
Later in the afternoon, things still looked stormy but the worst of the weather stopped. I took the rest of the afternoon to work on medical school applications and have a little rest and relaxation. Every thru-hiker needs some of that from time to time. So we definitely made the most of our stormy, dreary day. For your amusement, the following is a picture depicting the incredibly strenuous afternoon I had.
Sunday, May 30, 2010
All Done with Old Smokey
And the sun always comes back out, eventually.
Quote of the Day: "Bear-Horse!" -Daddy and I, every time we had to step over a pile of manure, which was about every 3 minutes, it seemed.
Thursday, May 27, 2010
On top of Old Smokey
Yes. The shelter has a fence in front of it. To keep the bears out. We stayed in our tent up the hill and survived the night just fine, though.
Day #2 in the Smokies passed rather uneventfully. Didn't see too many other hikers, except for one older, local man who stopped and chatted with us for about 10 minutes about how he thru-hiked the trail in 1976 and got offered membership in the KKK, got caught in the mountains in a snowstorm in 1993 and came down to find the (entire?) U.S. Army sitting on his car, and did we know that a black bear's gallbladder sells for $5,000 on the black market in San Francisco? They guy was more than a few fries short of a Happy Meal. No more bear sightings, but we did see some deer and some wild turkeys.
...Clingman's Dome Tower...
...the view at the top...
...and two happy hikers.
We were at Clingman's on one of the 40 clear days of the year. Apparently, on all the other days, smoggy pollution prevents the spectacular views we got. What a blessing to be there on that day. We could see over a distance of about 80 miles, and it was truly breathtaking. You may notice in the pictures that the forest looks like it's dying. That's because it is. Throughout this part of the park, a parasitic European insect has devastated the old growth pine forests that once covered these mountains. Everywhere we looked, we found huge (8 feet or more in diameter), ancient trees dead, dying, uprooted and rotting in pieces. It absolutely broke my heart to see something that was once so splendid, so majestic, so unusual, destroyed by human carelessness. It is truly a tragedy, and I hope one day we can find a way to stop, if not reverse, this kind of loss. I'll never know what it feels like to walk through a truly healthy old-growth forest of Southern Pine, and if we aren't more careful, my grandchildren may not even know what a pine tree is.
Monday, May 24, 2010
Slackpackers Unite!
We slackpacked another 16 miles (14 miles yesterday and 2 this morning) to Fontana Dam, a beautful little hidden gem in the North Carolina Mountains. The terrain was easier than the 13 miles from Nantahala, and we did the 14 miles yesterday in less time than the 13 miles Saturday. I could really get used to the tiny pack gig. I can move so much more efficiently when I don’t have 20 extra pounds to sling around (although as I am constantly reminded by other AT enthusiasts, 20 pounds is featherweight compared to the 40+ most thru-hikers carry...thank God for Mamma the Trail Angel to save our backs from the burdens of huge packs...), and I seem to be much more motivated to reach my final destination quickly when I don’t have overnight gear in my pack to fall back on.
We met some AT volunteers working on the trail yesterday. The entire trail is constructed and maintained by these hardworking volunteers, and they were very cheerful and happy to talk. I have no idea how they hiked into the middle of the NC wilderness with all that heavy construction equipment...
Beware of women in the woods with axes…unless they are fixing the trail for you...
Lots of ridge hiking this time, complete with more lush forests and babbling mountain streams. Daddy and I don’t stay in the AT shelters (wooden or stone lean-tos built by AT volunteers) when we overnight in the woods, since I’m not to fond of sleeping next to a smelly stranger or any of the mice that famously frequent the tiny buildings, but I thought I’d show one all the same. They are pretty cool things, even though every time I pass one I can’t help but feel like I’m walking past the set for “Deliverance"...
Signing the hiker log at the shelter...
...wish I could’ve thought of something more profound...like the guy who signed right above us and told the story of the mouse who climbed into his sleeping bag and was now controlling him with small levers from inside his skull...
We actually got to hike directly on top of Fontana Dam this morning. It’s over half a mile long, and very impressive. We met Paul, a retired IBM computer engineer who had started the AT at Harper’s Ferry, WV last year, but had to stop because he developed a hernia 600 miles into his trip, and was then further delayed when his wife broke her neck in a car accident. They have both since recovered, and he was very enthusiastic about finishing his trip. He was hiking south and assured us that he had only seen two bears over the 50 miles of trail Daddy and I will hike over the next few days...oh boy...
Mamma and the Trail Dog hiked with us for a couple of miles to the dam! It was great to have more company. We got another “real meal” in a restaurant this afternoon since we were finished with our hiking goal early in the day, always a treat. Since I made the brilliant decision to partake in this adventure exactly when medical school applications are due, I took advantage of the free wifi at Fontana Dam to do a little work on my future life. Hopefully all of the logistics will work themselves out while I’m out here exploring the wilderness…
On top of Fontana Dam. I promise I don’t feel quite as rough as I look.
Quote of the Day: “Well, we come in, we flag the new trail. The biologists come in, they tell us to move it. We redo everything we did the week before, and then we start digging!” ~One of the AT volunteers when I asked him how exactly one goes about relocating a trail. And more proof why biologists just get in the way of good progress…(come on, have a sense of humor, my bio friends...)
Miles from Springer: 164, Miles from Katahdin: 2015
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Hardest Day Yet
The place where we stayed last night had zero access to internet, so apologies for a post that's a day late. We even got to stay in a little hotel last night, which was wonderful. A real bed, a real shower, and ice cream! Can't beat that kind of treat.
Friday, May 21, 2010
Progress
The scenery at the top of the balds made the long climbs and the dense woods completely worth it. There were two of note, because they had observation towers at the top of them for complete, unobstructed, 360 degree views. The first major bald we came to was Wayah Bald, which has apparently been a popular tourist destination for years. There is a very old stone tower there that was great fun to explore.
Until next time, loyal friends of Nano. Many more adventures to come after this exciting first week.
Quote of the Day: "You've never heard of potted meat? You spoiled, rotten little brat." - Daddy
(during a diner of quick-cook rice one night when I was wishing for a steak and Daddy was talking about his childhood foods. My rice tasted pretty dadgum good after I figured out what it was...)
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
More Milestones
The past three days have been full of even more milestones for me, in both quantity and quality. I just completed my longest continuous hike yet - just over 40 miles in the past three days, with a total of about 29 hours of hiking time and 2 nights camping. The terrain varied, from extremely tough climbs and descents to relatively easy hiking along ridgetops with little elevation change. The second two big milestones we achieved were:
1) Finishing the first of the 13 states the AT passes through - Georgia. There are about 70 AT miles in the state of GA. Now only 12 more states to go...
2) Finishing the first 100 miles of the hike. Now only just over 2,000 to go...
Had some interesting weather experiences. It rained all day Sunday and most of the day Monday. A light drizzle, really and nothing too upsetting. Until 8pm Monday night, as we were setting up camp, after it had been beautiful for 4 hours, when it started pouring halfway through putting the tent up. Everything was soaked. It was the first time I actually felt miserable. My feet hurt, I was freezing, and all my stuff was wet. I had a bowl of Ramen and got over it. There's lots more of this to come. But for those of you who were waiting for my impossibly upbeat attitude to fail, there you go. A wet tent will do that to you. Tuesday was beautiful though, and we made good time to Winding Stair Gap to meet the RV. We got there in time for a shower, and snack before the Mel Tillis concert. There is no lack of fun and entertainment on this AT journey. Mel was playing in Franklin, NC, right down the road, and his show was hilarious and his music was great. Good, old-fashioned country music.
Met some interesting folks along the way over the past few days. We passed the "Korean Alpine Club of Georgia" on Sunday, out for a day hike. It is exactly what it sounds like, a group of Korean-Americans living in northern GA who share a passion for all things mountainous. They looked like they were enjoying themselves, although for all I know they could've been miserable, since none of them were speaking English. We passed a group of older hikers (there were about 30 of them) going up Standing Indian Mountain. One of them told me that I "looked like a thru-hiker if he'd ever seen one." I think he was just being nice but it was a good ego boost. We also met a man I will call "Scottie," a 72 year old gentleman from Scotland (hence the name) who reminded me very much of Sean Connery (so of course, I immediately fell in love with him). He's been traveling the world for the past 7 years, and is currently on the "American Odyssey" section of his journeys. He was also out for a day hike, with nothing but his little yellow umbrella, and gave me very inspiring words of encouragement while telling me a bit about his travels. He is a man who is living his life to its absolute fullest, and not taking a single day for granted. I will probably never see you again, Scottie, but you uplifted me, and I hope the rest of your travels are wonderful. I will be careful on my way to Maine, and I will do my best to savor every step, as you so clearly do. I wanted to leave you with these Gaelic lines before you left, ones I read somewhere years ago, but I could not remember the words. So, here they are now:
May the road rise up to meet you.
May the wind be always at your back.
May the sun shine warm upon your face;
the rains fall soft upon your fields and until we meet again,
may God hold you in the palm of His hand.
Feet still hurt. Still tired. Still learning. Hey, it's only the first week, right?
Things always seem better from the top...
Quote of the Day: "I've been traveling the world for 7 years. I've only seen 2 of the United States so far. But you know what? There's no deadline. I'm on the "rest-of-my-life" schedule." -Scottie
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Milestones
Coming off the trail at Unicoi gap Thursday night, running from the bear, so happy to see my Trail Angel waiting for me across the road.
Distance From Springer: 67.5 miles
Distance From Katahdin: 2111.6 miles
Quote of the Day: "Callie, what is the matter with you? Are you laughing at yourself again?" - Dad.
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Slow Starts
Today was our first day of hiking on our "real" journey to Maine. We got off to a slow start this morning. We are still getting acclimated to our new surroundings in the RV and in a state park we've never been to, so things move a bit slower right now. We have some time to play with, so taking our time to make sure we are prepared is probably a good thing. My Uncle (who will henceforth be referred to as UJ) is here with us for a while, which is fantastic, especially for Mamma in the RV. We went about 6 miles today, from Neel's Gap to Tesnatee Gap, and it took us about 5 hours. What can I say, I'm squishy and slow.
As I stepped into the Raven Cliffs Wilderness, a few things were immediately apparent. The entire character of the forest has changed since March. Then, everything was a damp brown, bleak and dead-looking. Now, I am surrounded by green. Ferns and flowers completely coat the forest floor. It looks almost tropical. I was also treated to several critter encounters today, and in March I barely saw so much as a mosquito. I came across all manner of bugs in all shapes, sizes and colors, a tiny snake, hawks and buzzards, a bunny rabbit, and evidence of bears (see below).
Toldya so...
I could probably make better time if I didn't stop to fix the cairns. I think I'll do it all the same...